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Spain: Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel and Spa, Mallorca

Sophy Grimshaw
14 August 2015

The Spanish island has shrugged off the lazy tourist clichés of previous decades, not least with the arrival of such a luxury big hitter. Sophy Grimshaw is impressed

THE LOWDOWN:
High on a hill, with exceptionally wide-ranging views across the Tramuntana mountain range and the fishing village of Port Soller, is this vast-yet-chic (for some reason, the two rarely go together) hotel, a maze of 11 buildings connected by lush gardens.

Ask for a sea-view Superior Room if you can, all of which have glass outer-walls in the bathrooms so you can watch the boats bob by outside. Five-star touches include a dressing room rather than a wardrobe, and automated blinds so you needn’t leave your bed to reveal the sea view from your private terrace.

The hotel’s infinity pool is almost worth skipping the beach for — unlike the family pool it’s serenely adult-only, and replete with bar/café with waiter service to your sun lounger. But don’t be tempted not to venture out. As well as taking in the immediate charms of Soller, with its promenade of restaurants and small stretch of seaside, you’d be crazy not to make the most of the easy access from here to the small, pretty beach coves that abound in this part of Mallorca. They’re a particular favourite of families because of the shallow, crystal-clear waters. There are boats sailing regularly from the port at Soller to the various beaches, with tickets at around €25 per person each way. But you’d do better to hire a car locally — typically less than €50 a day — to tick off as many as you can.

You might want to head to the pine-shaded beach at Portals Vells or, if you dare to bare, the quiet nudist beach of Mago. The much more expansive stretch of sandy beach at tourist favourite Es Trenc is also accessible from here, but a much further drive at around one half and a half hours. If you don’t want to spend all your time in the water, not far from Soller is the almost ridiculously picturesque village of Deia, where the author Robert Graves lived for decades. It has a beach too, of course.

Back at the hotel, three different in-house restaurants — including an LA-worthy sushi bar — plus the fact that there’s an excellent independent seafood restaurant, Nautilus, just a few minutes’ walk away, mean eating in is a tempting (if pricey) option if you don’t feel like wandering down to Soller every night.  

You can easily kill a day in the spa with its hamman, treatment rooms and an unusually grand outdoor thermal pool with mountain views. A thermal pool in a country this hot might not seem immediately appealing, but once you try it with sore muscles from a day of sightseeing, you’ll feel differently.

THE GOOD:
The expansive sea and mountain views afforded by the hotel’s high position really are something else, with falcons swooping by as you eat breakfast

The spa that looks like something out of a Vogue shoot and is unrivalled on Mallorca.

Large private terraces make a wonderful spot for a sundowner.

THE NOT SO GOOD:
If you wanted a one-of-a-kind boutique bolthole, you’d might be better off in a smaller hotel.

Priced to be within reach of but a few.

THE VERDICT:
Suitably elegant, luxury accommodation for this increasingly chic Spanish island.

BOOK IT:
Superior Mountain View rooms starts at €500 per night (in August), inclusive of breakfast. Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel and Spa, Mallorca, Calle Bèlgica s/n, 07108 Port de Soller (+34 971 637 888; jumeirah.com/mallorca)

This hotel can also be booked through Elegant Resorts: Stay seven nights from £2,795 per person. Price is based on two people sharing a Superior Mountain View room on a bed and breakfast basis (one night on a complimentary basis), return economy flights, private car transfers, UK Airport Lounge passes and a complimentary spa treatment per person