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Argentina: Fierro Hotel, Buenos Aires

Alex Marshall
18 November 2016

This isn’t just any old boutique bolthole. With one of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires and an emphasis on Argentina’s finest wines, it is a bon vivant’s dream. Alex Marshall cracks open the bubbly

THE LOWDOWN: 
When people visit Argentina, their initial thoughts often turn to football, tango and the jaw-dropping landscapes of Patagonia and Iguazú. They overlook something else the country is a world beater at, its wine. But a stay at the boutique Fierro Hotel, in the heart of buzzing Palermo Hollywood, ensures you won’t make the same mistake.

Billing itself as a hotel for ‘open-minded, food loving travellers’, this becomes evident at check-in when we are presented with a voucher for a glass of wine in the hotel’s much-praised Uco restaurant (the hotel’s owners are vintners in the Uco Valley, Mendoza). 

Upstairs, the epicurean theme continues. Each of the 27 rooms – large suites, some with balconies – feature several bottles of wine to buy, all with tasting notes by Andrés Rosberg, Fierro’s wine director. In my room there’s a 2007 Bordeaux-style red from a private vineyard (3000 bottles produced a year, none for export) and some of Moët & Chandon’s Argentinean bubbly, perhaps the best sparkling wine outside France. Rosberg evidently knows his stuff. He is, after all, one of Argentina’s original professional sommeliers and president of the country’s Sommelier Association.

Of course, this isn’t just a hotel for oenophiles. Whatever your tipple, you will still have a fantastic stay, not least because of the food. Everyone waxes lyrical about Uco and I can see why; deservedly one of Buenos Aires’ most hyped restaurants, it is filled with a buzzy crowd who travel across the city to meet in its lush garden and devour piles of the freshest mixto frito, 18-hour slow-cooked shoulder of Patagonian lamb and homemade ice cream.

The suites have the features you would expect of a much pricier hotel and manage to pull off the trick of being understated in their design, but still feel warm and welcoming. The beds are also superb. I had two 6am starts while staying here, and on both days woke as if I had actually been asleep for hours longer.

THE GOOD: 
The location could not be better. You are close to Palermo’s cool restaurants and boutiques, but you won’t have to deal with any of the area’s noise.

Buenos Aires’ brilliant, underappreciated subway is a mere ten-minute stroll away.

THE NOT-SO-GOOD: 
The rooftop pool barely deserves the name, which is a shame if you want to swim. But if you just want to sit in some water with a drink, it does the job.

THE VERDICT: 
Thanks to its reasonable rates and decent restaurant, this boutique number is a perfect base for exploring Buenos Aires.

BOOK IT:
Rooms start at £125 including taxes. Fierro Hotel, Soler 5862, Palermo Hollywood, Buenos Aires (+54 11 3220 6800; fierrohotel.com)